Nuda 900

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Premium components have been used throughout its construction - it has fully-adjustable? The engine was upgraded to a cc capacity and many internal components were modified to improve power, performance, and torque curve. The result is a more typically aggressive, racing character - a true Husqvarna machine. For Mauno, who currently rides a Husqvarna SMR and is just two points from the top in the Supermoto World Championship standings, the motorcycle's stunning design is a personal highlight.

It's just so sharp, it looks really dynamic and in my eyes, it just couldn't look better. He is hungry to be World Champion and with three races left this season and just that tiny gap between himself and the leader, the title is within reach. With his ability to get the best from Husqvarna motorcycles, it was felt he was the perfect person to the put NUDA R through its paces. Mauno, who spends hours every week training on his SMR, says the revolutionary street bike is the perfect balance between performance, technology and style - the three key elements which went into its creation.

It's so smooth - but with a frame and engine from BMW and the brand's trademark technology behind it, that's hardly surprising. It doesn't just look good, sound good, and feel good, it's a reliable motorcycle too. And on top of that, it has the great Italian design. It's really the perfect combination of the performance, technology and style.

It's just a really cool bike. Home Manufacturer Contact. Any corrections or more information on these motorcycles will be kindly appreciated. Contact Terms of Use Policy. Husqvarna Nuda R. Make Model. Four stroke, parallel twin cylinder, DOHC, 4 valves per cylinder. Bore x Stroke.

Cooling System. Liquid cooled. Compression Ratio. Dry sump. Engine Management. Exhaust system with exhaust value and equipped with carbon cap, carbon clamp and carbon heat protection. Max Power. Max Torque. Multiple-disc clutch in oil bath, mechanically operated. Constant mesh 6-speed. There would certainly be cannibalization of sales between the brands, but since the customer dollars ultimately find their way into the same honey pot, KTM would be unfazed by this prospect and would certainly welcome the 10, or so extra units that Husky brings to the table.

After all, the customer overlap in the high-end off-road market falls almost completely to these three brands alone, and a lost Husqvarna sale almost certainly means a KTM or Husaberg sale instead. The EU antitrust officials might wake up from such a move though, but you never know. Although the Italians seem resistant to the change, there seems to be little to stop KTM from leaving only a small design and marketing squad behind in Varese, while production moves to Austria.

That would leave a nice asset, read: factory, for KTM to sell, but that is a completely different rumor and animal to explore later. Back on task, now that KTM is beginning to realize that things on the ground in Italy are far worse than what BMW Motorrad lead them to believe, one has to wonder if Pierer is rethinking his plans for Husqvarna. No matter which outcome works its way to the top, the Husqvarna brand seems destined for some work in developing markets, which loyal Husky enthusiasts will likely understand to mean complete dilution of the Husqvarna brand as we know it — Benelli owners know what I mean here.

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The visionary, extraordinary design concept by Husqvarna Motorcycles targets specifically young customers seeking a single track commuter vehicle outside of the scooter segment. Nuda and Nuda R. These exhilarating new models are the first to combine the history and race pedigree of Husqvarna with the technological innovations and engineering prowess of the BMW Group, and the flair of Italian styling.

The results speak for themselves — the Nuda and Nuda R — two motorcycles built with soul and passion that is backed up by high performance developed through years of competition experience. It delivers a sporty, dynamic ride where agility is balanced perfectly with performance in a bike with a bold and fresh look. Is it a supermoto? Is it a naked bike? Despite being minimalist in its design, every panel on the Nuda helps define its athletic body, giving it a sense of dynamic tension that flows the length of the bike and finishes on the tapered tail that mimics the aerodynamics of a sports bike.

Husqvarna understands that the heart and soul of a motorcycle comes from its engine and so choosing the right motor formed a crucial part of the Nuda project. Husqvarna has increased the capacity of the liquid-cooled parallel twin engine from cc to cc through a 2 mm larger 84 mm bore and increased the stroke to 81 mm, up by 5.

The compression ratio has been raised to Through the new design of motor with 1 mm larger 33 mm intake and Despite the boost in both power and torque, the highly advanced intake manifold fuel injection system with BMW-KP engine management and two 46 mm throttle valves means the Nuda delivers very low fuel consumption figures.

Despite its sporty litre fuel tank, the Nuda allows for distances of over km between stops. Finally, to add the Husqvarna stamp to the engine, the rocker box cover is painted red — a feature common to all Husqvarna motorcycles. With its vast racing experience, Husqvarna knows which components to turn to for the ultimate performance and how to extract the maximum from a chassis.

Taking the F GS steel trellis chassis as a starting point, Husqvarna has reduced its length by 50 mm then added a stiffer 80 mm steering head tube and decreased the steering head angle to give the Nuda greater agility at low speed. These modifications make the Nuda perfect for the urban environment, delivering a rapid turning response in confined spaces. To further increase prestige of the Nuda R, Husqvarna has equipped its chassis with the very highest specification of components.

To create a motorcycle more suited to urban life or touring, the Nuda comes with preload adjustable 48 mm Sachs forks and a fully adjustable Sachs monoshock. This work has created a bike that is both stable at high speed and agile at low speed that delivers a safe and comforting ride whatever the conditions.

This, along with the relaxed and natural riding position, is certain to be appreciated and exploited in full by both beginner and expert riders alike. While both models have radial brake calipers, in order to further enhance its sporty appeal, the Nuda R comes with Brembo monobloc racing brakes with mm discs.

Constructed out of a single piece of aluminum for maximum feel and power with minimal flex, these twin four-piston radial calipers give the Nuda R superior braking power on both the road and track. The Nuda also features Brembo four-piston radial calipers and mm discs with sintered pads, delivering powerful, accurate and smooth braking feel whatever the conditions. Weight is crucial in making a motorcycle agile and Husqvarna has managed to keep the mass of the Nuda R to less than kg, partly thanks to the use of carbon fiber details and a lightweight sports exhaust system.

Both models of Nuda come with a stainless steel exhaust muffler, however the R has a carbon fiber clamp, end cap and heat shield. Those wishing to take their Nuda touring, either solo or with a pillion, can enhance the experience with a high windshield kit and a range of either soft or hard luggage. An optional flat or two-level seat is also available.

The distribution will be limited and the current economic climate will discourage dealers from taking on a new and unproven line of motorcycles. I could see this new rig next to my new Ducati Diavel. Current ADV bikes out there now watch out! Reading Husqvarna Nuda Share Tweet. Perhaps BMW will pull it off…or perhaps this is one step too far. Lift and slightly turn the mudguard 2 , then remove it.

Disconnect the oil pump supply connector 1. Loosen the two screws 2 and remove the pump delivery fitting 3. Remove the small chassis 11 with the reservoir 12 towards the rear side of the bike. Disconnect the fuel pipe 2 by loosening the two screws; collect the fuel that could come out. Connect the positive pole 12V of the power supply to the pin of the red cable in the pump connector; Disconnect and remove the connector 1 of the air temperature.

H Disconnect the connector 2 of the idle air actuator Stepper motor. H Lift the filter box 6. H Open the clamp 7 and remove the Blow-By pipe 8 ; remove the filter box 6. During the reassembly, the throttle control cable 9 must pass over the pipe 8. Remove the throttle body 1 from the harness. Disconnect the connector 2 from the injectors. Silencer 2. Clamp 3. Exhaust valve actuator starter motor 4. Lambda sensor 5. Manifold 6. Gasket Workshop Manual Ed.

Remove the protection 1 by loosening the screws 2. H Loosen the nuts 3 and disconnect the cables 4 that control the exhaust valve. H Disconnect the connector 11 of the Lambda sensor. H Cut the clamp Loosen the central screw 13 of the manifold support H Lambda sensor removal Remove the fuel tank as described in the relevant paragraph. Disconnect the connector and remove the horn 2. H Radiator removal Remove the saddle and the right-hand panel as described in the relevant paragraphs.

H Cut the fan harness retaining clamp 7. H Disconnect the connector 8 of the fan. H Remove the radiator 9 from the right-hand side of the bike, by removing it from the special clips. H H Electric fan removal Remove the radiator as described in the relevant paragraph. Loosen and remove the upper pin 1 of the shock absorber, then tilt the shock absorber to the rear part of the bike.

H During the reassembly, position again correctly the bushings H H Disconnect from the engine the cable 13 of the clutch. Loosen the screws 15 from the left side and the screws 16 from the right side. Lift the chassis 17 by removing it from the engine. Insert the new clamps 3 in the slots and reinstall the battery support 1. Tighten the screws 5 on the left-hand side of the chassis to torque. Workshop Manual Ed. Remove the spring 3 and the chain tensioner 4 from the hole.

H Camshaft mount disassembly Loosen all the nuts 2 uniformly in a diametrically opposite order and remove them. Only half-balls marked with an identification number "XXX" may be used. Half-balls without an identification number must be elimi- nated.

Clean the sealing surfaces. Before fixing the mount, make sure that the axial camshaft guide is correctly positioned arrow. Remove the screw 1 with the sealing ring 2. H Check the position of the camshaft gears. Remove the head cover as described in chapter "F1". Lock the crankshaft as previously described. Chain tensioner disassembly Remove the screw A with the sealing ring B.

Lubricate the seal lip of the new oil seal; then fit it on the cover, using an appropriate tool. Install the shaft oil seal 1 with the thrust spindle. The open side of the sealing ring is located inside. The space washer 2 must engage on the gearbox shaft. Remove the cover 2 with the gasket 3.

H Stator disassembly Remove the screws 4. Remove the cable gland 3. Remove the screws 1. H Clean the sealing surfaces. Fit the new gasket 3 and the engine crankcase cover 2. Remove the screw 1 with the washer. Disassemble the crankshaft position sensor 2 , remove the gasket 3. Upon reassembly, replace the gasket 3 and tighten the screw 1 to the correct tightening torque using Loctite Extract the starter motor, paying attention to the sealing ring 2. H Installation: Check the sealing ring 2 for damage and replace it if necessary.

Disassemble the gearbox potentiometer 2 with the sealing ring 3. Check the oil seal 4 for wear; if there are leaks, replace it. H Disassemble the control gear 15 and the thrust washer Insert both needle roller bearings 13 with the space washer 14 in the clutch housing Fit the clutch housing 12 all the way down, paying attention to the oil pump gears. Insert the flanged bushings 2 on the springs 3 and fit the springs on the pressure plate 5. Disassemble the cover 2 with the gasket 3.

Removal: Disassemble the retaining ring 4 and the washer 3. Disassemble the gear 2. Disassemble the drive pin 1. Insert the pin 9 in the shaft. Place the rotating piston 7 on the shaft with the mark 10 facing outwards, paying attention to the correct positioning of the pin 9. Open the pipe clamps 1 using a suitable tool and disconnect the pipes 2 from the radiator 3 and from the pump cover 4.

H Check that the hole 14 in the engine cylinder head is not blocked and clean it if necessary. Clean the seat of the pump in the engine cylinder head. Clean the hole 21 if necessary. Do not clean the hole with compressed air. Apply a layer of Three-Bond on the contact surface of the pump body A. H Fix the pipe clamps 5 carefully checking that the tabs of the clamps are facing towards the rear. Replace the water pump as described in the relevant paragraph.

H Installation: Clean the threading and the washer 5. Remove the screws 1 and the oil sump 2. Installation: Clean the sealing surfaces. Remove the screws 1 and the gasket 2. H Remove the screws 3. Remove the cover 4. Refit the oil sump as described in the relevant paragraph.

Remove the oil filter. Remove the starter motor. H Remove the screw 5. NOTE: The caps 2 must not be inverted. Replace the screws 1 and tighten them manually. H Clean the sealing surfaces and the gaskets. Check and if necessary replace the sealing ring 5. Position the head cover 2 paying attention to the breather opening arrow. Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until the marks IN and EX on the camshaft gears are facing each other and are level with the seal- ing surface.

Remove the slider 3 with the support 4. Remove the camshaft mount 1. First lift the intake camshaft 2 and then the exhaust camshaft 1 with a suitable tool, making sure not to damage the sealing surface. Tighten the screw 7 left-hand threading with the washer 8 locking the shaft with the socket 9. Unscrew the screw 1. Remove the mobile chain tensioner slider 2 towards the top.

H - Remove the fixed slider 3 of the timing chain towards the top. H Check the chain sliders for wear and replace them if worn. The half-balls can fall inside the cylinder head oil ducts. Plug ducts with a cloth.

Removal: Unscrew the screws 1. Unscrew the screws 2. The spare head is supplied together with the mount. Remove the cylinder head as described in the relevant paragraph. Remove the cooling pump as described in the relevant paragraph.

Remove the upper valve spring retainer 7 and the valve spring 5 Remove the bottom valve spring retainer 8. Remove the valves 9. Fit the temperature sensor 3. Remove the cylinder head. Remove the heat exchanger. Remove the safety pin 3. Using a suitable puller, remove the pin 4 of the compensation arm 5.

Rotate the compensation arm 5 upward. Remove the bearing 2 , being careful not to damage the gear and the bear- ing seat. H Extract the washer 3. If just one coupling gear is replaced, the load bearing capacity on gears may become significantly worse. Replace the paired gears, but one at a time! All components must be checked before being installed. H Extract the idle wheel 3.

H Shift drum star removal Remove the shift drum star as follows: Plug the openings in the crankcase with rags. Remove the engagement fork 5 of the 5 gear. H Gear selection drum removal Remove the screw 1. Remove the drum 2 from the lower crankcase half. Fit the inner bearing 4 using a press, making sure that the bearing rests correctly on its seat.

Do not exchange the components: mark the assembly positions. Remove the split bearings 3 from the two caps 2. H Mark the exhaust side on the pistons. Remove the split bearings 1 from the upper crankcase, the split bearings 2 of the main bearing caps and the split bearings 3 of the lower crankcase.

Visually check the grooves of the piston rings. H Piston ring assembly Insert a metal wire 3 through the two eyelets of the undulated torsion spring 2 , leave an equal length of wire on both sides, do not shorten it. Lubricate the piston pins with engine oil. Heat the piston to approx. Insert the connecting rod and the piston pins 2 , paying attention to the installation position. Insert the chain tensioner slider 2 and tighten the screw 1 to the required torque.

H Main split bearing installation Turn the upper crankcase of the engine and support the pistons inside the cylinders. Fit the caps 2 , making sure the reference pins 3 are correctly positioned. Pay attention to the installation position marks. H Clean and lubricate all the connecting rod separation surfaces. Clean the control roller and the supporting points and lubricate them with engine oil. Fit the selector drum with the bearing 2 in the section of the crankcase.

Accidentally plugging the throttle valve or the oil channel damages the gearbox, because the main oil supply is interrupted. Lubricate the split bearings with engine oil. H When inserting the lower part of the engine crankcase half, pay attention to the centring pins.

Press the bearing pin down fully. Use a suitable tool to insert the pin 2 in the compensation arm. Fit the safety pin 1. H Gearbox output shaft oil seal installation Fill the new oil seal between the inner sealing lips with grease. A screw or nut tightened beyond the permitted max. Intake valve clearance Intake valve 33 mm 0. Fork leg retaining screws.

Steering head. Ring nut. Bottom yoke. Dust seal. Loosen the four screws 1 and move the handlebar without removing it. H Loosen the ring nut 6 and remove the bottom yoke 7 with the related bearings 8 and the dust seal 9. Install the bottom yoke 1 , the upper bearing 2 and the dust seal 3 , the H Tighten the upper screws 9 of the fork leg stems to torque.

Reassemble in reverse order the other components that were previously removed.